Khao Soi: Luang Prabang's Famous Noodle Soup (and How to Make It)

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Order khao soi in Chiang Mai and you'll get a coconut-curry noodle soup. Order it in Luang Prabang and something entirely different arrives: a clear, porky, tomato-rich broth over soft rice noodles, topped with fermented greens. Same name, different dish — and the Lao version is worth the trip alone.

What goes in it

  • Wide, flat rice noodles (khao piak sen style, or fresh rice noodles)
  • Ground pork, browned hard for deep flavor
  • Tomatoes, pounded into the broth for body and tang
  • Fermented mustard greens and fresh herbs on top
  • Chili oil and lime on the side — non-negotiable

The broth is everything

Unlike its Thai cousin, Lao khao soi skips the coconut milk. The richness comes from pork and tomato simmered low until the broth turns savory-sweet. Street vendors in Luang Prabang start their pots before dawn; the best bowls sell out by 9 a.m.

Simple home recipe (serves 4)

  1. Brown 500g ground pork in a heavy pot until deeply golden. Don't rush this.
  2. Add 4 chopped tomatoes and 3 minced garlic cloves; cook until the tomatoes collapse.
  3. Pour in 1.5 liters of pork or chicken stock. Simmer 30 minutes.
  4. Season with fish sauce, a spoon of fermented soybean paste if you have it, and black pepper.
  5. Blanch fresh wide rice noodles; divide among bowls.
  6. Ladle over the broth. Top with sliced fermented mustard greens, scallions, and cilantro.
  7. Serve with chili oil, lime wedges, and extra greens on the side.

Where to eat it in Luang Prabang

Head to the morning market area — vendors near Phousi Hill set up before sunrise. Look for the shortest menu and the longest line of locals. That's your bowl.

Made this at home? Tell us how your broth turned out in the comments.

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